The terms "shape" and "cut" are frequently confused.
Sometimes you can hear references to the emerald cut diamond, when in reality
emerald refers only to the shape of the stone, not to its cut. The shape is the
geometrical form of a diamond after a diamond craftsman cuts and polishes it,
while the cut is a characteristic of diamond's quality and value.
The choice of the shape for the diamond are a mostly a
matter of personal taste. Round shaped diamonds are the most popular, and all
other shapes are called Fancy shapes. Besides Round shapes, jewelers could
offer the Emerald, Heart, Marquise, Oval, Pear, Princess, Radiant, Asscher, and
Trillion fancy shaped stones.
The relative appearance of the stones size could be
affected by its shape. Before selecting a particular shape, you should also
consider how different shapes will look on your hand and what setting would
enhance the shape of the diamond.
Round shape is the most brilliant of all the cuts, and it
is sometimes referred to as the "Ideal Cut". This refers to attempts to cut a
diamond into the best proportions in order to achieve the maximum brilliance.
Since in general to achieve the "Ideal Cut" diamonds lose more in weight they
are rare and usually are more expensive. In general, with an "Ideal Cut" stone,
you want the setting to have the least amount of metal around the stone so that
it is held securely but does not cover up too much of the diamond and block
light from entering the stone.
The brilliance and sparkle of a Round cut is achieved by
a flawless execution of each and every one of its 58 facets (including the
culet.) Because it is typically possible to retain more weight from the
unpolished diamond if it is cut into a Fancy shape the Round shaped diamonds
are usually more expensive.
A stone with an Emerald cut looks like a rectangle, with
all four of its corners slightly cut. Because the facets in such a cut are
expansive with flat planes and resemble steps on a staircase, it is called a
step cut. Though it is completely a matter of style & preference, in the
classic dimensions for this cut the length of the stone is approximately one
and a half (1 ? ) of its width, also known as the length-to-width ratio of
1.50:1.00. Due to its structure, an Emerald cut greatly reveals the stones
color and more inclusions than other cuts, therefore a higher quality stone
should be considered.
The shape created by a Pear cut, could be compared to a
teardrop. It is cut as a combination of a Marquise, with a curved end on one
side and a narrowing to a point at the other, and the Round brilliant cut.
Resembling falling liquid, the shape of the cut lends itself nicely to pendants
and earrings. Though a matter of style & preference, in the classic proportions
for this cut, as for most fancy cut stones, the length of the stone is
approximately one and a half (1 ? ) of its width, also known as the
length-to-width ratio of 1.50:1.00. To prevent against damage the most
vulnerable part of the pear cut stone, the pointed edge, should be protected by
a V-shaped prong. Learn more about different jewelry settings.
As with many fancy shaped cuts, an imperfect Pear cut
will reveal itself to a naked eye by a "bow-tie" effect. This aspect will not
be noted on a diamond grading certificate, but is seen as two darker, less
brilliant areas in the middle of the stone resembling a bow-tie, occurring in
the places where the light leaks through.
As you can imagine the Hear Shaped stones are a done in
the ever romantic shape of heart. The technique used to cut it is very similar
to the Pear shape, with the addition of a cleft on the top. Often the cutter
may elect to use this particular cut instead of a pear to illuminate an
inclusion at the top of the pre-cut stone by creating cleft.
To create an "authentic" heart-shape the artisan working
on the shape needs to pay special attention and try to achieve a near perfect
symmetry of the two lobes of the stone. For maximum brilliance and sparkle
curvature of the lobes should be distinctly rounded and not pointed, with cleft
well defined and polished. As with Pear shaped stones the pointed portion of
the stone should be protected from damage by mounting it onto a V-shaped prong,
with four more completing the setting. Learn more about different jewelry
settings.
As with many fancy shaped cuts, an imperfect Heart cut
will reveal itself to a naked eye by a "bow-tie" effect. This aspect will not
be noted on a diamond grading certificate, but is seen as two darker, less
brilliant areas in the middle of the stone resembling a bow-tie, occurring in
the places where the light leaks through.
Stones in the shape of a Marquise resemble an oval with
two pointed ends. By virtue of its form, when used in rings, a Marquise tends
to elongate and flatter fingers. Though a matter of style & preference, in
classic proportions for this cut the length of the stone is approximately twice
the size of its width, which is also known as the length-to-width ratio of
2.00:1.00.
Just like with the Heart shape in a well cut Marquise
symmetry of the two sides is essential to its great appearance. The two pointed
ends of the shape are the most vulnerable to damage, and should be protected by
two V-shaped prongs, with four more completing the setting. Learn more about
different jewelry settings.
The brilliance and sparkle of a Marquise shape is
achieved by a flawless execution of each and every one of its 56 facets. As
with many fancy shaped cuts, a poorly cut Marquise will reveal itself to a
naked eye by a "bow-tie" effect. This aspect will not be noted on a diamond
grading certificate, but is seen as two darker, less brilliant areas in the
middle of the stone resembling a bow-tie, occurring in the places where the
light leaks through.
If you're looking for something different and unique, but
yet don't want to step too far from the classics, look no further than an Oval
shape stone. As the name suggests the shape is oval and is rather similar to a
classical Round Brilliant shape, except it is elongated to form an ellipse.
Though a matter of style & preference, in the classic proportions for this
shape, as for most fancy cut stones, the length of the stone is approximately
one and a half (1 ? ) of its width, also known as the length-to-width ratio of
1.50:1.00.
While somewhat different, an oval fits wonderfully in a
variety of different ring settings. Taking into consideration its unique shape
the classic Round prong setting should be adjusted to include six prongs,
spread out evenly over the length of the stone. The brilliance and sparkle of
an Oval shape is achieved by a flawless execution of each and every one of its
56 facets.
As with many fancy shaped cuts, a poorly cut Oval will
reveal itself to a naked eye by a "bow-tie" effect. This aspect will not be
noted on a diamond grading certificate, but is seen as two darker, less
brilliant areas in the middle of the stone resembling a bow-tie, occurring in
the places where the light leaks through.
If you're in a mood for something more modern, then the
clean, almost austere lines of a Princess shaped stone could be what you're
looking for. Cut as a rectangle, most often with square outlines a Princess is
a fresh approach for any jewelry piece. Executed as a combination of triangular
facets of the Round Brilliant shape and the broad "steps" borrowed from the
Emerald cut, this shape sparkles and shines with its right-angle corners.
To protect against damage the pointed edges of this shape
should be wrapped with the V-shaped prongs or the stone could be enclosed in a
different setting altogether. Learn more about different jewelry
settings.
A stone with a poor Princess cut will reveal itself to a
naked eye by a "Windows" effect. It is easily with a naked eye as the area of
little to no faceting. Significant lose of brilliance and sparkle in the areas
where windowing occurs, because the light passes right through the stone
without bouncing back up.
Elegant and unique the Asscher shaped stone appears from
the shadows as a flashback from the times of the great Gatsby. A variation on
the Emerald cut this shape's is most distinguished for the way it is cut on the
bottom. The "scissor" cut is used throughout the pavilion, with all of the
facets cut down toward the culet, using the "step" technique. The cut corners
from the Emerald cut usually appear to be similar in size to the more square
sides, giving this shape an almost octagonal appearance, look of more volume
and brilliance.
Radiant is one of the examples of "mixed" cutting, where
various and very different techniques of cutting are combined to create the
shape. Radiant is a variation on the Emerald cut with the corners of the
rectangle slightly cut, mixed "step" and "scissor" cuts while using the
triangular faceting cutting techniques of the Round Brilliant cut. The
length-to-ratio of the Radiant is broader than that of an Emerald cut but not
as square as a Princess cut, and most often cut as a rectangle. The setting for
this stone should be very carefully considered to protect all of the multiple
pointed corners with V-shaped prongs or equivalents. Learn more about different
jewelry settings.
A stone with a poor Radiant cut will reveal itself to a
naked eye by a "Windows" effect. It is easily with a naked eye as the area of
little to no faceting. Significant lose of brilliance and sparkle in the areas
where windowing occurs, because the light passes right through the stone
without bouncing back up.
One of the most progressive and modern shapes which
instantly makes a statement is the Trillion cut. As a variation of the Radiant
cut it's unique shape being very close to a triangle. It's execution combines
faceting used on Round Brilliant shape and step cutting. All three of its
pointed edges should be protected against damage with one of the option being
the V-shaped prongs. Learn more about different jewelry
settings.